Good morning! Today we have for you:
My go-to fish dish
I can’t resist a fish. I am drawn to seafood counters and markets with the wide-eyed urgency of a cartoon cat. The bold striping on mackerel! The pearly flesh of cod! The taut, mirror-like sheen of a pompano and the sunset orange of salmon or trout — all beautiful, all delicious. “Should we get some fish?” I inevitably ask my husband. (He’s also a cartoon cat; he always says yes.) This means, of course, that I often have aimless fish in my fridge, without a specific recipe or plan in mind. Fresh fish doesn’t exactly like to hang around, so 90 percent of the time I use it in this miso-glazed fish, a Martha Rose Shulman recipe inspired by the chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s miso-marinated black cod. The non-fish ingredients — miso, mirin, sake, sugar, sesame oil — are pantry staples, which means I am always ready for this dish. It’s about to get a little Seussian, so bear with me. I have made this with cod; I have made this with trout. I swapped in canola when my sesame oil ran out. I’ve let salmon sit in marinade for many an hour; thin tilapia fillets got a quick soak so the miso wouldn’t overpower. (I’m done now.) As for what to serve with your miso-glazed fish, some suggestions from my own meals: a quick cucumber salad, shredded cabbage or whatever salad greens you have tossed with this gingery carrot dressing (or this sesame number), spinach gomaae, sliced silken tofu sprinkled with furikake, the fattest umeboshi you can find. And rice. Always rice. Featured Recipe Miso-Glazed FishToday’s specialsSheet-pan gochujang chicken and roasted vegetables: “Trying not to hyperbolize, but this may be the single most delicious recipe from this site I’ve ever cooked, at least the best of the sheet pans.” That comment is from a reader named Matt, for Yewande Komolafe’s five-star stunner. Coronation cauliflower and chickpeas: Consider this your meal-prep moment in today’s newsletter. Hetty Lui McKinnon’s vegetarian take on the classic salad of cold chicken coated in a creamy curry sauce only gets better as it sits, so make extra for lunchtime sandwiches and salads. White skillet lasagna: I get excited whenever I see Christian Reynoso’s name; he consistently cranks out excellent recipes (this reader-favorite noodle soup, mapo tofu scramble, pesto beans). Leeks, garlic and thyme are tossed with béchamel sauce in this ruffly edged lasagna for four; smoked mozzarella or Gouda adds depth. With a simple leafy salad and a bottle of wine, this is a really lovely dinner. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started.
And for dessert
Oatmeal cookies are kind cookies. A sweet little treat that sneaks some filling oats into my snack — how thoughtful! Yossy Arefi uses pumpkin purée and pumpkin spice to autumnify chewy, cakelike cookies. There’s some pumpkin in the frosting, too, because we’re going all in on fall. Thanks for reading!
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