Beauty School answers common beauty questions with help from creative people who’ve become experts on the job. Sign up here to find us in your inbox once a month, and send any questions of your own to tmagazine@nytimes.com. Winter, with its cold temperatures, dry air and windiness, is notoriously rough on skin. And “if your skin is dehydrated, your barrier function is compromised,” says the aesthetician Raquel Medina-Cleghorn. “That can lead to redness, inflammation and acne.” Rather than slathering on heavy creams that merely sit on top of the skin, she recommends layering products with a range of consistencies and ingredients. Here, Medina-Cleghorn, who is a co-founder of the skin care and wellness studio Raquel New York, as well as Filippa Fuxe, a Stockholm-based fashion designer, and Keiko Kuwakino, a Japanese chef who lives in the snowy coastal city of Niigata, share their favorite remedies for replenishing the skin when temperatures dip. Filippa Fuxe, 28, fashion designer, Leoní Studio | | From left: Emma Lewisham Supernatural Face Crème Riche, $95, emmalewisham.com; La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $40, laroche-posay.us; Monastery Rose Cleansing Oil, $48, monasterymade.com; Bioderma Sébium Foaming Gel, $25, bioderma.us; Rudolph Care To the Rescue Balm, about $30, rudolphcare.com; and La Roche-Posay Anthelios Age Correct SPF50+, $37, skincolor.net. Fuxe: Matilda Engström; products: courtesy of the brands |
- When I was growing up, my grandmother took oat baths for dry skin. Similarly, I do a nourishing oat rinse a few nights a month. I put a scoop of rolled oats in a sachet and add it to a bowl of boiling water. I let it sit until the water becomes milky, then dip a washcloth into the liquid and dab my face and neck.
- On other nights, I double-cleanse, starting with a rich moisturizing oil. I like Monastery’s Rose Cleansing Oil, which removes makeup, followed by Bioderma’s Sébium Foaming Gel. Then I use La Roche-Posay’s Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum for plumping and Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Face Crème Riche.
- The last layer is Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Face Oil, for any spots that still feel dry. I also pat it on my lips or use Rudolph Care’s To the Rescue Balm, which is from a local Danish brand I’m obsessed with.
- The sauna is such a part of the culture here, and it gets the blood flowing, which is good for the skin. I combine it with a cold plunge. I get a nice flush from going between hot and cold.
- During the day, I wear La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Age Correct SPF50+, which works as a sunscreen, face cream and spot corrector. It layers well under makeup, too.
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Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, 39, aesthetician | | From left: SIV Biome Balancing Serum, $79, sivcare.com; C27 Baume 27 Advanced Crème Riche, $180, cosmetics27.com; CO2 Lift Carboxy Gel Treatment, $97, co2lift.com; Olivier Midy Essence Midy, $185, Éclat Midy, $146, shop.raquelnewyork.com; and Sofie Pavitt Face Omega Rich Moisturizer, $64, sofiepavittface.com. Medina-Cleghorn: Jeff Henrikson; products: courtesy of the brands |
- Changing your moisturizer is the most impactful thing you can do for your winter skin care routine. For oily and acne-prone skin, Sofie Pavitt Face’s Omega Rich Moisturizer is noncomedogenic and not too heavy. For dry skin, I love C27’s reparative Baume 27 line — I recommend the rich cream in fall and winter (though I personally use it year-round). To protect sensitive skin against extreme cold, apply Siv’s Biome Balancing Serum under your moisturizer. It’s like an extra layer of your body’s natural oils and contains healthy bacteria.
- Exfoliate half as often this time of year — or at least use a gentler exfoliant. I like Olivier Midy’s Essence Midy toner, which includes mandelic acid.
- When I wear makeup in winter, I put two drops of Olivier Midy’s Éclat Midy face oil in my skin tint or foundation. It gives a nice glow, especially when used with the makeup for touch-ups during the day.
- For a hydrating facial-in-a-box, I swear by CO2 Lift’s Carboxy Gel Treatment. Mix two packets of gel together and leave it on for 45 minutes. It solidifies into a rubbery layer that you peel off. It’s meant to boost circulation, collagen regeneration and wound healing, and the effects last for weeks.
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Keiko Kuwakino, 45, chef at Satoyama Jujo | | From left: LuLuLun Precious Sheet Mask, $9 (for seven-pack), lululunusa.com; Kao Sofina Primavista Moisturizing Primer, $38, goodsofjapan.com; d’Alba Vita Toning Capsule Cream, $32, dalba.com; Tsumura & Co. Kusuriyu Bath Herbs, $62, ibspot.com; and Otsuka Oronine H Ointment, $13, japanesetaste.com. Kuwakino: © Satoyamajujo; products: courtesy of the brands |
- No matter how busy I am, I always start my day with a soak in the public hot springs near me and enjoy another bath at home at night. It wakes me up from the inside out and keeps my skin in good condition. At night, I’ll add bath salts, either from Kneipp, Bathclin’s Kikiyu series or Tsumura & Co.’s Kusuriyu series.
- After every soak or bath, I apply a sheet mask like LuLuLun’s Precious Balance or Kose’s Clear Turn Super Moisturizing Mask EX. I sometimes add cream to finish — lately, that’s been d’Alba’s Vita Toning Capsule Cream, which has a light texture.
- In Niigata, it snows for more than five months a year, and the sun’s reflection off the snow can be quite strong. I often go outside to forage for wild plants, so I make sure to apply sunscreen year-round. I use Kao Sofina’s Primavista Skin Protect Base, which also prevents dryness or flaking during long hours in the kitchen.
- When my hands get very dry, I sometimes use rendered, purified bear fat, an old natural remedy. I get it from local hunters in the mountains of Niigata and really treasure it. It does have a strong smell, though! Or, I’ll use Otsuka’s Oronine H Ointment. I also often handle and eat fermented foods, which I believe help keep my hands healthy and smooth.
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T RecommendsThese interviews have been edited and condensed. Read past editions of Beauty School here. |