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It’s marmalade timeMy big box of Seville oranges from Florida finally arrived this week, and let me tell you, unpacking it was like cracking open a crate of summertime. Despite being a late winter crop, the oranges are a harbinger whose sunny color is vibrantly matched by their sunlit aroma — sharp, tangy, floral. So this weekend’s family project will be to corral all that bittersweet brightness into a big batch of marmalade, enough tawny jars to fill the pantry and still give some away. Our family goes through a lot of it every year, but we like to spread the sunshine around. Naturally we’ll slather it on toast for breakfast, but marmalade is also great to cook with, adding inimitable brightness to both sweet and savory dishes. I wrote all about it in The New York Times and created three new recipes to prove the point: carrot muffins with marmalade centers, chewy marmalade oat cookies and spicy marmalade chicken and sweet potatoes roasted on a sheet pan. Of the three, the chicken might be the least expected. Marmalade is combined with crushed red pepper and fish sauce for the glaze, those bits of tart, syrupy peel complementing and contrasting with the fiery funk. If your marmalade is on the sweeter side, be sure to finish the dish with a mizzle of lime juice to punch things up. It’s a most pleasant surprise. Featured Recipe Spicy Marmalade Chicken and Sweet PotatoesThough, of course, we can’t talk marmalade without mentioning its most iconic spokesbear. I recently received an email from none other than R.W. Alley, longtime illustrator of the “Paddington” books, who helpfully reminds us that “marmalade spread liberally between slices of sturdy bread” is itself an indispensable recipe. “Saving the result under your hat, in case of emergency,” he clarifies, “is optional.” More food for thoughtCod with caper-orange sauce: There’s more citrusy bliss to be had in Nargisse Benkabbou’s speedy recipe, made with turmeric, garlic and vinegar for complexity and color. Use the small nonpareil capers here to add the most pronounced, salty pops next to the soft, mild fish. Tomato-braised bacon pasta: Christian Reynoso brings real depth to his brawny pasta sauce, which is filled with smoky chunks of thick-cut bacon. Simmered with canned tomatoes, a shallot for sweetness and plenty of thinly sliced garlic, it’s a meaty riff on the standard marinara. Salmon gyro bowls: Instead of spit-roasted meat and pita, Ifrah F. Ahmed’s fresh take on Greek gyros features silky salmon and rice. The two are layered in a bowl along with spice-roasted tomatoes and onions, cucumbers and a lemony, dill-filled yogurt sauce to round it out. Mushroom poblano tacos: Kristina Felix uses sazón, the Puerto Rican seasoning mix made with cumin, garlic powder and paprika, to add a jolt of spice to seared mushrooms and cherry tomatoes in this easy meatless meal. You can fold the mushroom mixture into warm tortillas or spoon it over eggs for a meal that’s both satisfying and light. Orange marmalade cake: One further way to enjoy a jar of marmalade that won’t mess up your hair: Make this fragrant, buttery loaf cake and serve it with a nice pot of tea (or dram of whiskey). For the deepest flavor, you should look for a bittersweet marmalade with big chunks of peel. Then spread some on top for a quick and glistening garnish that hits like a ray of light. That’s all for now. If you need any help with a technical issue, you can reach out to cookingcare@nytimes.com. And I’m at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to offer any marmalade-making advice, or just say hi. I’ll see you on Monday. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started.
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