'The Bear' is back in the kitchen

By Linda Holmes

There has always been a metaphorical parallel between The Bear, the television show, and The Bear, the fictional restaurant on the television show. Even as Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) and Sydney (Ayo Edebiri) transformed the Italian beef joint into the fancy restaurant of their dreams and wished for a Michelin star, there were undoubtedly locals who thought, "This is great and all, and I'm sure the food is good, but ... I liked the beef sandwiches." There's still a window at The Bear to get them, but the focus is certainly elsewhere.

When it started, The Bear was mostly about the work that took place in the kitchen. The stresses of too many orders, territoriality from Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), the arrival of Sydney, and the tightly wound but undeniably talented Carmy, making everybody both extremely stressed and significantly better. Over time, it shifted and grew, putting together beloved departure episodes like "Fishes" in Season 2, which introduced a boatload of guest stars for a flashback story of a disastrous family dinner before Mikey (Jon Bernthal) died. It spent time with Sydney's family, it explored the way Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) and Mikey originally met, it followed Marcus (Lionel Boyce) to Copenhagen, and it went with Richie to work for Andrea (Olivia Colman). All these episodes were excellent. And there was still a kitchen. But the focus seemed to be elsewhere.

At times, the show seemed to have disappeared up its own nose, to the point where you weren't watching the show The Bear as much as you were watching the phenomenon The Bear. There were too many real-life chef cameos, until it seemed like those chefs were checking a box on a list of "things all the cool kids do." There were too many other cameos, culminating in a rare miss from the reliably charismatic John Cena. The show placed a lot of narrative weight on Carmy's love interest, Claire (Molly Gordon) — weight that the underwritten character couldn't support. But even if every experiment and every diversion had worked, viewers couldn't be blamed for missing the close focus on the kitchen and the camaraderie — for thinking, "This is all really special, but I do miss the beef sandwiches."

The fifth and final season dispenses with the departure episodes, and it mostly dispenses with cameos. It all takes place on one day, just after Carmy tells Richie and Sydney that he wants to step back from the restaurant and give it to them and Sugar (Abby Elliott) to run, and it mostly takes place right there at The Bear. Now that the clock set by Jimmy (Oliver Platt) has run out, his money has run out as well, and a series of cascading disasters puts Sydney, Carmy and Richie behind the 8-ball from very early in the day, not least because of the tension hanging over all three of them as they prepare to tell the staff about Carmy's decision to leave.

We spend this day mostly with the people we know best: our three leads, along with Sugar, Tina, Marcus, and the rest of the staff — including Luca (Will Poulter), who has stayed around to keep working with Marcus. Jimmy is running around with Computer (Brian Koppelman) and a young apprentice of his named Cheese (Elsie Fisher of Eighth Grade), trying to figure out what to do about his finances since it is Jimmy, and not just the restaurant, who's out of money.

This day takes a while to get cooking, so to speak. The first three episodes of the season are slow, the first two in particular. It's pouring rain outside, the lighting is dim, and the score maintains the same contemplative melancholy for a long, long time. For about two and a half episodes, it feels like one extended, low-energy scene.

But after that, there's a shift in tone as the staff looks to get through service, and through seven episodes (FX did not make the finale available in advance for critics), the rest of the season is terrific. What you see is the core story of The Bear, which is people trying to serve food and overcome problems, but through the lens of everything that has happened over the show's run: Carmy's retreat from his obsessiveness, Richie's expansive (and inspiring) discovery of his gift for hospitality; Sydney's stepping forward from second-in-command to leader; Tina's complex relationship with the restaurant and her grief over Mikey; Sugar and Carmy's relationship with Donna (Jamie Lee Curtis); the arrival of Marcus as a high-end pastry chef.

The question the show asks over the last four episodes is: Given all those digressions and flashbacks, given all those visits with families and others, given everything we know about where all these people have been and what they've experienced, how does a high-pressure service — of the same kind we used to see in that first season — look now? How do they behave differently, and how does their behavior read differently? How are they the same people we have always known, but at a different juncture, in a different context? How do their wins mean more to them, and to the audience?

On the one hand, making a season this way, there are fewer surprising grace notes, like "Napkins," the Tina/Mikey flashback episode in Season 3, or "Worms," the episode in Season 4 where Sydney hung out with her cousin (Danielle Deadwyler) and her cousin's kid. The Bear feels less daring and more conventional.

But oh, when they have victories under pressure? Victories, large or small? It is immensely, richly satisfying. There's also more comedy other than just the goofy Faks family than we've had in a few seasons; Richie is perhaps the MVP of the season, and that's partly because of how often he gets to be really funny. Ayo Edebiri continues to be the show's best reactor, showing Syd eternally a little bit surprised (dismayed?) that she's chosen to throw in her lot with these people.

There are a couple of questions yet to answer in the finale, both little plot items and broader character resolutions. Over these seven episodes, though, there is much to cheer.