Good morning! Today we have for you:
A mini Rosh Hashana menuRosh Hashana is less than a week away. For those who celebrate, have you figured out your menu yet? Being at the mercy of my giant sweet tooth, I always lock in dessert first, which, in most years, involves a certain beloved buttery plum torte. But this year I’m going rogue. For my last column, I adapted a recipe from the British cookbook author and food stylist Benjamina Ebuehi for a lemony pistachio polenta cake that happens to be gluten-free. Rich with olive oil, flecked with nuts and covered in a citrusy white icing, it’s both elegant and a cinch to make, and you can bake it a day ahead. And, if you don’t need a Rosh Hashana dessert, this cake is excellent as a midafternoon treat with tea, or anytime you’re looking for a fragrant, moist cake to share. Featured Recipe Pistachio Polenta CakeAlso on the menuCurried roast chicken with grapefruit, honey and thyme: Colu Henry’s five-star stunner has a long title for such a succinct and simple recipe. Gently spiced and tangy-sweet, it’s a great choice for your holiday table and beyond. Ras el hanout roasted vegetables: This colorful, caramelized mix of sweet potatoes, carrots and parsnips by Nargisse Benkabbou is redolent with ras el hanout, a heady spice blend from North Africa. It would go beautifully with that roast chicken, or a brisket for that matter. My favorite challah: Joan Nathan’s recipe is everything you want in a challah — glossy crust, tender crumb and a judicious (and optional) sprinkling of seeds. Serve it warm from the oven with apples and honey. Reading and eatingApropos of the Jewish holidays, I just finished Nora L. Rubel’s “Recipes for the Melting Pot,” a history of The Settlement Cookbook. It’s a fascinating analysis that traces how the best-selling cookbook has influenced Jewish American identity and culinary culture since it was published at the beginning of the 20th century. The Settlement Cookbook was certainly a staple when I was growing up; my extended family has been splattering and staining our respective copies for as long as I can remember, especially around the holidays. I still have my grandmother’s worn volume on my shelf. When I pull it down, it flops open to matzo balls, which are much like the ones in Joan Nathan’s matzo ball soup, except Joan adds a little grated fresh ginger for verve. Not surprisingly, Joan’s mother also relied on The Settlement Cookbook, and Joan writes about her in this lovely piece from 2003. And while we are on the subject, Joan also wrote a memoir, “My Life with Recipes,” that is an utter delight to both read and cook from. What are you reading? Let me know at hellomelissa@nytimes.com — I’m always looking for my next great read.
For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started.
|