A fresh take on culture, fashion, cities and the way we live – from the desks of Monocle’s editors and bureaux chiefs.
Saturday 16/8/25
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London
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Moving on up
Fancy pushing the boat out? There’s a seized Russian superyacht on the market that might fit the bill. For something slightly more low-key, you can try Helsinki’s Doggy Route to Happiness or join the Monocle Concierge for a tour of Mexico City’s best retail offerings. Plus: the new albums to add to your summer playlist and the museums designed with children in mind. Getting the wheels in motion is our editor in chief, Andrew Tuck.
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Slow to try new things? Sometimes all we need is a little encouragement to grease the wheels
By Andrew Tuck
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Let me bring you up to speed on the cycling. What do you mean you missed that column? A couple of weeks ago I revealed my awkwardness at having to purchase cycling clothing to go on a cross-country ride with my friend Chiara in Mallorca. The securing of the “bib” had been the troubling part. This is the garment that looks like something that a wrestler might wear – tight Lycra shorts with over-the-shoulder brace-like elements and extensive padding around one’s bottom. Imagine always having your favourite cushion down the back of your pants.
I would like to report that all went rather well on the initial outing – the padding was a delight – and so Chiara subsequently found me ringing repeatedly on her doorbell asking if she wanted to come out and play (and would she kindly lend me her bike again).
Last Saturday she relented and we struck out from the town of Inca, heading up to Selva and Caimari before reaching Pollença in the north. It only takes a couple of hours to get there and back, a modest 45km. But even so, for the newbie it was exhilarating. The orchards and vineyards. Birdsong. The roads covered by an arching canopy of trees. The locals having a morning beer at the village bar. The sheared sheep with bells clanking around their necks (were they thinking, “I really must go and see the vets about this tinnitus. I’m sure it’s getting worse,” or was the sound more of a fun soundtrack, their version of classic clangers available on Sheepify?).
Oh, and the borrowed bike just whirred along. Chiara did have to slow her pace to avoid my humiliation. Yet, even so, I would occasionally lose sight of her, only to find her some minutes later catching up on complicated emails or completing her tax return while she waited for me to huff and puff into view. Did I mention that there were hills? Having been promised that it would be “quite flat”, I was surprised just how many times she had to shout things over her shoulder like, “Basically it’s uphill for the next kilometre.” It’s also fair to say that Chiara is a little competitive. There were a couple of moments when she would turn to inform me that we needed to overtake the cyclist in front of us. This always struck me as unwise. Thankfully, these incidents were rare – well, how many one-legged nonagenarians carrying home a large sack of potatoes were we going to spot? Anyway, we made it and we’ve already agreed on a bigger adventure.
Beyond the cycling and my tenderised derrière, there’s something else that has stayed with me – how slow we can be to try new things. It’s so easy to think that you’ve left it too late to change course, to expose yourself to new experiences. Yet when someone shows the way, takes their time to encourage you and works around your fear of humiliating yourself, it’s funny how things can work out OK.
Last week I wrote about Monocle’s upcoming Quality of Life Conference in Barcelona (What? You missed that column too?). Subsequently I received a great email from someone who was looking forward to attending but confessed that they were also nervous because they would be coming solo and tend towards shyness. I say it was a “great email” because of how good it is to know yourself like this, to understand that you might need someone to have your back, to flag your concerns. I assured them that all would be dandy – most people come alone – and that we needed to find each other at the opening reception so that I could help them meet other delegates and the Monocle crew.
So, yes, the conference. It’s just three weeks away and I cannot wait. There’s an incredible line-up of speakers but this is also an event that takes flight because of the interactions that happen offstage. The friendships that form. If you have never come to one of our conferences before, come for the ride. It will be fun – and you don’t even need clothing with a protective gusset.
One final cycling detail. Someone I know – let’s call him Tom because, well, that’s his name – dropped me a note about the bib tale to suggest potentially “double-bibbing” for extra comfort. Perhaps this is some weird cyclists’ prank that you play on the convert but, if not, what would that look like? I have already explained that wearing the bib feels like you are sitting on a family-sized tortilla – but double-padding? You might as well have a truckle of parmesan down there.
Happy Saturday and I promise no bottoms next week.
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WHAT AM I BID? Amadea
For sale: Seized Russian superyacht. Serious offers only
The Stars and Stripes fly rather awkwardly from the stern of the Amadea (writes Gregory Scruggs). Seized by Fijian authorities at the behest of the US government in May 2022, the 106-metre-long superyacht previously owned by sanctioned Russian oligarch Suleiman Kerimov has been in Uncle Sam’s custody ever since – and racking up a hefty maintenance bill in the process. Now the US Department of Justice is eager to get the expensive billionaire’s toy off the public books with a sealed auction.
The six-deck stunner comes with eight opulent staterooms, three tenders, a gym, a spa, a swimming pool and the requisite helipad. Valued at $325m (€278m), there are likely only a few hundred serious buyers out there. Some very well could be Russian oligarchs hiding behind shell companies. Several have been fighting such auctions in court for years – one reason why the Department of Justice has been forced to foot the $7m (€6m) annual upkeep. But with a federal judge clearing the way, the Amadea is now ready for showings on Pier Street B in San Diego. There’s plenty of Italian marble, red velvet upholstery and crystal chandeliers to go around; whether the baby grand piano and cognac collection come with the yacht or are simply staging props remains unclear. Bids are due 10 September. fraseryachts.com
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TRUNK CLOTHIERS MONOCLE
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CULTURE CUTS: album releases
Sit back and settle into your summer soundtrack
The summer months are the ideal time to explore some new sounds (writes Sophie Monaghan-Coombs). Whether you’re in need of something to accompany you on a road trip, tunes for relaxing by the pool or bangers to get you strutting towards the dance floor, here are three of the season’s best releases.
‘Offshore’ by Nadeem Din-Gabisi The debut album from London-based poet, songwriter and visual artist Nadeem Din-Gabisi explores thorny questions of belonging and identity with a light touch, clever storytelling and propulsive beats. ‘Offshore’ is out now.
‘Ain’t No Damn Way!’ by Kaytranada Two-time Grammy-winning artist Kaytranada has been a dance-floor staple since the release of his debut album 99.9% in 2016. This new record arrives ahead of his autumn tour with French electronic duo Justice. ‘Ain’t No Damn Way!’ is out now.
‘Bury the Key’ by Tops Canadian band Tops’s brand of indie pop is well matched to long, slow summer days. This album, their first since the 2020 record I Feel Alive, has slightly more edge, while remaining just as easy on the ear. ‘Bury the Key’ releases on 22 August.
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How we live: Helsinki’s luxury dog-walking route
Finland has gone to the dogs – and it’s all the better for it
Helsinki is rolling out the red carpet for its four-legged friends (writes Petri Burtsoff). The admittedly poorly named Doggy Route to Happiness is a walking tour that sniffs out the city’s renowned attractions and takes in new spots designed just for pups.
There’s a dog-sized tribute to the city’s famed Sibelius Monument – made from sticks and dubbed the Stickelius Monument, naturally. Along the way, thirsty travellers can lap up refreshments at Café Dogatta, a seaside pop-up next to the beloved Café Regatta, while scenic pit stops come with water bowls, treat stations and some “bone-a-fide” tips on canine happiness. The walk’s grand finale is a theme park. Rajasaari Island is a fully fenced, dog-only island where hounds can zoom, dig and paddle to their hearts’ content. But mind the neighbours. The Finnish president and prime minister live just across the water.
“Pets are part of our happiness,” says Soila Lehkonen of Helsinki Partners, the company that led the project. “The city is home to 40,000 dogs and we wanted to give them and their owners a way to enjoy the city together. I haven’t seen anything like this in other cities.” With more than 90 dog parks, several beaches and a 50-hectare dog forest, Helsinki’s message is clear: this is a city where every resident, furry or otherwise, has space to roam.
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Sponsored by TRUNK CLOTHIERS
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The MONOCLE CONCIERGE: City Guide
Scent and Mexico City: meet the perfumer who wears her country proudly
Mexico City is a capital in motion: expansive, layered and endlessly compelling. A high-altitude sprawl of nearly 22 million people, it somehow manages to feel intimate in the right corners: a candlelit mezcal bar in Juárez, a jacaranda-shaded perch in Condesa, a quiet gallery in San Miguel Chapultepec. While its scale might daunt first-timers, seasoned visitors know to move moment by moment.
The city values curiosity and rewards it well. Amid the hustle and bustle, you’ll find a freewheeling but reassuringly human rhythm that is generous and never short on style. Here’s a favourite spot from our City Guide.
Xinú, Polanco A luxury fragrance house founded in 2016 by Verónica Peña, Ignacio Cadena and Héctor Esrawe, Xinú celebrates Mexico’s botanical heritage through unisex scents crafted with ingredients indigenous to the country. Its minimalist, sculptural bottles are designed to be repurposed.
To explore Mexico City in full, click here. Or better yet, subscribe to get unlimited access to Monocle’s handy, downloadable City Guides.
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THE MONOCLE QUALITY OF LIFE CONFERENCE 2025
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