Hi, it’s Kate Krader, food editor at Bloomberg Pursuits. I’m currently based in London, but right now my head is in my native New York City, home of a lot of restaurant action this fall. First and foremost is the opening of supper-club-styled the Eighty Six, from the team behind the buzzy forever Corner Store; it’s coming to the old Chumley’s space in the West Village. It’s a big deal for me, because Chumley’s is the place where my parents met and where I spent no small amount of my 20s, when it felt like the city’s funnest pub. There’s also a deluge of other big openings in the Big Apple: Cal-Italian pioneering cook Jonathan Waxman is bringing Barbuto and kale salad to Brooklyn, while OG Babbo chef Mark Ladner will reopen the place with star hospitality operator Stephen Starr, plus a bunch of minimal seat, maximal quality sushi spots. All of this means it will be as hard as ever to get into these hot-ticket dining rooms, and not just in New York. (Among the big openings in London this season: Carbone! A new spot from sushi master Masa Takayama! A Richard Caring project! And that’s just in the new Rosewood London.) I’ve been a broken record about the demand for the top dining spots and their endless nightly waitlists. So isn’t it high time you became a restaurant VIP? The art of perfect vibes: What NYC’s top restaurants have in common (and no, not just that you can’t get in). Photographer: Evan Sung/The New York Times/Redux This information comes courtesy of Adam Reiner, author of the upcoming The New Rules of Dining Out: An Insider’s Guide to Enjoying Restaurants (LSU Press; Sept. 19; $30). Reiner, who’s also a Bloomberg Pursuits contributor, has more than 20 years of experience waiting tables at notable restaurants including Babbo; he knows the kind of behavior that will get customers preferential treatment, even if it’s in a room jammed with celebrities and power brokers. In a recent interview, Reiner outlined half a dozen rules with me. They range from the semi-obvious—“don’t be glued to your phone,” because servers tend to ignore distracted guests who check their messages and TikTok feeds nonstop—to something that I, even as a very seasoned restaurantgoer, wouldn’t think to do, which is to tip the busboy or busgirl: “Slipping them a crisp $20 will help ensure that your water glasses remain full, your bread basket is replenished and your table will always be cleared in a timely fashion.” I’m an inveterate restaurantgoer and I learned a little something from Reiner. Source: LSU Press But the heart of The New Rules of Dining Out isn’t just about getting access to prime-time tables and a free dessert. It’s about being a more mindful diner—an attitude that works well for the beleaguered restaurant industry—and maximizing your experience, even if it’s imperfect. In a chapter titled “Managing Disappointing Experiences,” Reiner recounts a time he was working at the Grill in New York City when a table ordered a $500 wagyu steak. About an hour later, after the table’s pasta course was finished, a giant crash resounded in the dining room: A server had dropped that pricey steak on the floor. (GASP!) It’s the kind of event that ruins a night, for everyone. But, Reiner recounts, the table turned it into a party while they waited for their new steak. Furthermore, it almost certainly benefited them in the future: “A manager or maitre d’ will make a note of the bad experience on the guest’s reservation profile in the system to warn staff to handle with care on future visits,” he wrote. The table might even be invited back for a comp meal. But perhaps my biggest message from Reiner’s book is this: You can have a bad experience in a great restaurant. And vice versa. Never forget that you’re a part of making an experience succeed or fail. So make it work. Connect with Kate via email or Instagram. |