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Pork chops love apples (pass it on)
Like your favorite subscription, I just auto-renewed for one more newsletter. You might think we are all just one big happy family here, but staff meetings can get tense. Just the other day we threw down over apples. The tart Winesap had its fans. There was a vote for the Macoun from a kid from Connecticut. One editor argued in favor of the Cosmic Crisp, which is the popular new kid in apple school. Had any of my Northern California friends been in the meeting, they would have argued for the rare Gravenstein, a gift to America from the Russians. I’m heading out to pick apples in a couple of weeks. Here in Georgia, I go for the big Mutsus, but I also like an Arkansas Black, an apple with a name that sounds like that of a poker player. And there’s nothing wrong with a good old Granny Smith, the Australian-born apple that is now the fourth most popular in America. (Never give up, Granny Smith!) What are we going to do with all those apples? I’d start with Ali Slagle’s skillet pork chops and apples with miso caramel, in part because they call to mind the late Southern cook Nathalie Dupree’s pork chop theory of collaboration: Cook one pork chop in a hot pan, and it gets scorched and dry. But if you cook two pork chops in a pan, they feed off the fat from each other. Featured Recipe Skillet Pork Chops and Apples With Miso CaramelView Recipe → Thematically, I’d serve them with Eric Kim’s snappy apple and broccoli salad. Use a really crisp apple to match the bossy crunch of the broccoli. If you are in a “set it and forget it” state of mind, you could make Colu Henry’s sheet-pan chicken with apple and fennel and hope that Pete Wells shares his recipe for sheet pan martinis soon. We’ve got a new Romanian apple recipe out that is like nothing I’ve made before. The name translates to “poured apple pastry.” You cook down shredded apple and then sandwich the mixture in between two thin, light layers of vanilla cake and cut the whole thing into bars sprinkled with a generous amount of powdered sugar. You could make that for Rosh Hashana coming up, or put together an easy loaf of Yossy Arefi’s apple bread. It bakes up nice and high, and I try to pack in a little more apple than she does. Genevieve Ko researches recipes with the intensity of a C.D.C. scientist, so I trust every one of them she writes. She created a blackberry apple pie to make good use of her own apple picking haul. She added in blackberries as a nod to the shoulder season between fall and summer. The wide, woven strips of dough on top helps the fruit to get thick and syrupy. She likes to bake with Golden Delicious and Ginger Gold, for those of you keeping score at home. Friends, this is the last you’ll hear from me in this space for a while. Everyone’s back from their various vacations, and I’ve got reporting to do. Every story has a food angle, and I’m hell bent on finding it. I’m supposed to remind you that technical questions should go to cookingcare@nytimes.com. News tips, apple preferences and life hacks can come to me at severson@nytimes.com. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started. And before you goIt’s time for another Pizza Interview! Olivia Colman and Benedict Cumberbatch take over the pizza making duties at the New York Times Cooking Studio Kitchen, where they answer questions, make pizza and feed the world’s most famous sourdough starter. Click here or on the image below to watch:
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