Travel Dispatch: The French Riviera in Winter

March 7, 2026

Many red and yellow lanterns hang over a quiet, narrow street lined with buildings. A person and a child on a scooter walk past a restaurant called “Le Patio.”

The historic center of Antibes, a city on the French Riviera. Gianni Cipriano for The New York Times

Dear Travel Fan,

Since Israel and the United States attacked Iran on Saturday, and the Middle East airports that serve as global transit points shut down, thousands of travelers have been stuck in the Gulf region and around the world.

Travel’s reporters, Ceylan Yeginsu, Christine Chung and Gabe Castro-Root, have been telling their stories, from the initial chaos and confusion, to the growing frustration as many American travelers said they were getting no help from the U.S. State Department, to resolution for some — like passengers on an MSC cruise ship, as that company chartered planes to take them home. We also looked at how repatriation flights are kept safe.

We’ve continued to bring you news from other parts of the world of travel, like the Alps, where a confluence of issues is challenging the culture of classic ski resort towns like Chamonix, in France. Our Tripped Up columnist helped out travelers who canceled a hotel reservation after reports that it was rodent-infested, and then couldn’t get their credit card to help them with a refund. We brought good news for some younger skiers, as Vail Resorts dropped the price of next season’s Epic Pass for those in Gen Z.

The French Riviera has become a prime summer destination, but in earlier days, it was popular as a respite from the winter chill of London and other northern cities. We explored its off-season charm. Our 36 Hours column wandered the porticoes of Bologna, Italy, where a good meal is never far away.

Finally, if you’re looking for a bit of joy, I recommend this article about dog-sledding in Northern Minnesota. I think even if you are a cat person it will bring a smile to your face.

Wishing you safe and happy journeys,
Amy Virshup

OPEN UP YOUR WORLD

A view from above of a dense coastal town with a marina. Blurred green foliage with yellow lemons frames the foreground, with the sea in the distance.

The French Riviera in Winter: Sparkle Without the Glitter

A region famous for its sun-drenched climate becomes a refreshing retreat when the summer heat, megayachts and swarms of tourists are gone.

By Alexis Steinman and Gianni Cipriano

A view has a ski slope and lodge in the foreground, with a valley and snowcapped mountains beyond.

Alexandre Juillet/Chamonix-Mont Blanc

A Crisis in the Alps: Airbnb, Climate Change and Americans

The mountains’ resort towns have reached an inflection point, facing changes that threaten their cultures and even survival, as demand for short-term rentals reshapes the landscape.

By Sophie Stuber

36 Hours

36 Hours in Bologna, Italy

While Emilia-Romagna’s capital still thrives on traditions like tagliatelle al ragù and mortadella, new openings are taking the city in refreshing directions.

By Evan Rail and Marta Giaccone

A team of sled dogs pulls a blue sled across a snowy landscape. Two people stand on the sled in winter clothing.

Feel the Canine Charisma: Dog-Sledding in Northern Minnesota

On the edge of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, a novice learns to drive her own team on an adventure in the heart of winter.

By Elaine Glusac and Ben Brewer

THE CHANGING WORLD OF TRAVEL

An airport tarmac with white airplanes and ground equipment. Dark, dense smoke billows across the blue sky, over a distant cityscape.

Altaf Qadri/Associated Press

For Travelers Stuck in Dubai, ‘Chaos and Confusion’ and a Nervous Wait

The Emirates’ reputation as a safe destination in a volatile area was put to a brutal test in recent days as Iran, retaliating against U.S.-Israeli attacks, targeted the region with missiles and drones.

By Ceylan Yeğinsu, Omnia Al Desoukie and Christine Chung

A group stands on a promenade next to water in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. Tall, modern buildings, one with an open rectangular top, compose the background city skyline.

Ryan Lim/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

No Help and Few Options for Travelers Stranded by Mideast Conflict

Even far from hubs like Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the disruptions from the growing violence have left people jumping “from one cancellation to the next.”

By Christine Chung, Gabe Castro-Root and Niraj Chokshi

Two large white cruise ships are anchored at port beneath a clear blue sky. A tall palm tree stands beside one of the ships.

Giuseppe Cacace/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

In the Gulf, a Cruise Line Steps Up to Get Stranded Passengers Home

Thousands of guests on at least six ships await evacuation in the Gulf region. With government help slow, MSC, the world’s third-largest line, took matters into its own hands.

By Ceylan Yeğinsu

A large white airplane with four engines and extended landing gear flies against a clear blue sky, its tail striped red, green and black and the word “Emirates” painted on the side.

Kai Pfaffenbach/Reuters

A Fear for Travelers Escaping the Gulf: Are Flights Safe?

Drone and missile attacks have caused high anxiety across the region, but experts say the danger to commercial airliners is “fairly remote.”

By Gabe Castro-Root

An illustration shows the arm of a person wearing a white short-sleeve shirt on the right arm-wrestling a figure on the left whose arm is blue and has a dotted line and whose hand is a blue credit card. The arm of the person on the right is gripping the credit card, and lines show that they are moving back and forth.

Matt Blease

Tripped Up

Help! The Hotel Had Rodents, and Our Credit Card Won’t Accept a Dispute.

A couple spent $630 to reserve a room at Yosemite a year in advance, but days before their trip, they learned it had a rodent problem. Why did Citi tell them it was too late?

By Seth Kugel

A chairlift carries five people over a snowy mountain landscape. They wear winter clothing and helmets, with one person's arms raised.

Erin Schaff/The New York Times

Are You a Gen Z Skier? Vail Just Cut the Price of Your Next Epic Pass.

Seeming to acknowledge critics’ complaints about the high cost of snow sports, the company is cutting the price of its 2026-2027 Epic Passes for younger skiers and snowboarders.

By Claire Fahy

Feedback, thoughts, tips? Email the Travel desk at travel@nytimes.com.

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