Good morning! Today we have for you:
A lighter kugel for a bright PassoverPassover starts on Wednesday night, and I couldn’t be more ready for it. Winter felt interminable here in New York City, and I’m thrilled to finally pack away my parka and give myself over to celebrating spring. I’ve got the Seder menu all planned. Yes, there will be brisket, a rich and fatty deckle cut braised with leeks and wine. And I’ve got a new addition to the table as well. Instead of the usual potato kugel, I’ll be doing a lighter cauliflower kugel. With a fluffy, eggy center, it feels a bit like a soufflé, but with crisp edges from the olive oil and a heady, savory flavor from plenty of onions and a touch of smoked paprika. Beyond Passover, cauliflower kugel makes an excellent meatless main course, maybe rounded out with a salad filled with all the green things of this season of renewal. Featured Recipe Cauliflower KugelMore food for thoughtRoasted chicken with dates and olives: Joan Nathan has a terrific new recipe for chicken roasted with briny olives and capers, sticky dates and some minced preserved lemon for brightness and funk. She adapted it from Tara Lazar of Birba in Palm Springs, Calif., who designed the dish so that you can make most of it ahead — a boon for Seders and other gatherings. Haroseth: Several years ago, Joan adapted a Sephardic haroseth recipe from the New Orleans chef Alon Shaya. He substitutes sweet moscato wine for the Manischewitz; swaps hazelnuts for the almonds; and adds onions, vinegar and figs for acidity and sweetness. Cod with harissa butter and lemon: Nargisse Benkabbou’s speedy fish tastes absurdly complex, bright and fragrant for a dish that you can whip up in under 20 minutes. The secret is combining harissa with butter and honey for a gentle bite that’s both spicy and rich. Green shakshuka with avocado and lime: This verdant take on shakshuka by Sarah Copeland relies on sautéed chard to make a soft nest for poaching the eggs, which are then topped with avocado, Cotija cheese and as much hot sauce as you can take. Toasted coconut rum balls: There’s a lot of good stuff going on in these Passover-friendly delights from Carolina Gelen. She binds toasted coconut with brown butter and dates, spikes it with rum, then covers it all in chocolate. The resulting treats are fudgy, boozy and just sweet enough. That’s all for now, except to mention that if you’re having a technical meltdown, you can email the ever-patient people at cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And I’m at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi. I’ll see you on Wednesday. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started.
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