The climb from Hell to Heaven can be long and arduous. Take Dante’s, for instance. The man persevered through nine circles of inferno, sans electrolytes, only to find himself staring up at the mountain of Purgatory. Merda! And you thought your walkup was a trek. Luckily for those partygoers with forbidden-fruit predilections, Gosh, a new guest-list-only Chinatown club (accessible via e-mail), allows patrons a quicker ascent to Paradise, if they can stomach the snooty vibe. On a recent weekend, a group of friends congregated in the venue’s basement, a narrow room with black leather couches and steel tables. Red neon tubes illuminated art works ranging from the disturbing (a black-and-white photograph of a person stuffing sausages in their mouth) to the mundane (a pastoral painting of a snowshoe-wearing rifleman). The friends ranked their drinks. The Sadomaso, a sharp fusion of Amaro Montenegro, mezcal, lemon, and sotol, placed last—far too bitter. Then came the Mirafiori, a golden, overly sweet mix of mezcal, crème de litchi, lime, and nasturtium. The Gin Basil Smash, an addictive blend of gin, lemon, sugar, and basil, topped the list. Simplicity was proportionate to success: the bar had a formidable Guinness on tap. Pints in hand, the group ascended to the ground level—an elegant Japanese-style parlor dotted with toadstool seats—but didn’t stay in that purgatory long, instead heading to the top floor, a tentlike lounge enclosed by velvet curtains printed with a psychedelic pattern of dinosaurs, naked gnomes, and Babelian monoliths. Two members of the group stumbled through a nondescript door nearby, and found a wood-panelled confessional, where an empty beer glass sat beside the divider. In this version of paradise, even angels have secrets, divulged, apparently, over a cold Irish stout. |